Story 11/1

Bob P. had returned with Michael to Classic Wave 10 days earlier, and together with Bob H. had moved Classic Wave up to Dunstaffnage (just north of Oban). Michael had then left, earlier that day and caught a train home. John, Barrie and myself made our way up to Scotland in John’s car. It had taken us four hours and forty minutes, which included a stop at The Drovers Arms, close to Loch Lomond.
On arrival at Dunstaffnage Marina we dumped our gear on board and joined the two Bobs in the bar of The Wide Mouthed Frog. We were soon on the “Highlander” a real ale from the Fyne Brewery in Argyle. At 4.8% a.b.v. it was a bit stronger than your average pint.
       The following morning we were all a bit hung-over, a ‘Fyne’ start to our Sailing holiday. We had been experiencing problems both with the charging system on the engine and the 240 Volt Generator. A part (condenser) had been ordered from a firm in Oban and after a phone call we were on our way to pick it up. We collected the part, did some shopping and had a “mooch” around Oban. It was then back to the marina to prepare for sea. As we were topping up the water a flotilla of Swedish yachts made their way in.We were asked time and again “where do we go”? We could only shrug our shoulders and advise them to call the marina staff on Channel 37.

DUNSTAFFNAGE TO TOBERMORY (MULL)
        Motoring out of the marina the sails were hoisted and we sailed across the Lynn of Lorne. Rounding the Eilean Musdile Lighthouse and entering the Lynn of Morvern the wind was on the nose. We continued to sail until entering the Sound of Mull with the wind and tide against us, the engine was started and we made our way up the Sound towards Tobermory. The radio was busy as a yacht had gone aground off the northern coast of the isle of Lishmore and Oban Lifeboat had been launched to pull then off. Our two intrepid fishermen, Barrie and John had a go, with very limited success, while passing some rocks in the middle of the Sound. The competition was intense at this early stage; no clear leader could be identified; however the rules were now being debated. Was the winner to be the one with the most, the largest (edible or not) or the greatest number of species. Watch this space!
        We arrived at Tobermory and being ‘tight wads’ decided to drop the anchor instead of paying for a visitors mooring. Putting out thirty metre of chain we found ourselves drifting back into another yacht. We had to drag it all back on board; thank the lord for electric winches. We cheekily picked up a private mooring, and as no one approached us stayed put. After a meal on board, of Bob P’s stew,with a fish (Mackerel) starter, it was off to the Mishnish for a few beers. The Summer Solstice was fine, but even the bar staff did not know from which Brewery it was from. A bit pricey at £3.70 at pint. The evening’s entertainment was a Disco, which was not to all our crew’s tastes, however two of our number were there until two in the morning. I won’t say who, but they both fish.
        The following morning was wet and visibility was poor to say the least. We stayed put and fitted the new part to the 240-Volt Generator, which then worked fine. We then had another look at the charging system on the engine, but came to no definite conclusion. A couple of pints in the Mishnish followed and then a lazy afternoon. The evening was again spent at the Mishnish where the entertainment was a duo called “Shernanigans” playing middle of the road music, there broad Scottish accents were at times difficult to follow.

CANNA TO KALLIN on GRIMSAY (OUTER HEBRIDES)
       We awoke to find that the forecast had been correct “Sunshine turning to showers, Winds S.W. 4 or 5”. The anchor, which had collected a great deal of kelp, was raised and we moved out of Canna Harbour. The wind was S.W. at around twenty knots so a reefed main and foresail were hoisted and we headed across the Sea of the Hebrides. The sea state was moderate and we sailed across doing around six and a half to seven knots occasionally reaching eight in squalls. Our destination was to be decided by the wind. We tried for Loch Boisdale, but could not make it. Bob H. decided (we always blame him when we get somewhere with no ‘facilities’) to miss South Uist and head for Grimsay, which is next to the islands of Ronay and Benbeckula. Kallin has a marked channel but a very small harbour, so we hoped for a shop and possibly a pub. Visibility was better than the previous day but still not good. As we entered the channel the sails were lowered and again out came the fishing rods, as we crept in. Cole Fish arrived in surprising numbers. These became the starters for our evening meal. After a peek at the small harbour, which was full of small fishing boats, we picked up the visitors mooring. Two men who were servicing the fish farm further up the Loch passed in a boat and informed us that the nearest shop was about eight miles away and the nearest pub was six miles away. Our two intrepid fishermen took off in the dinghy to set the Lobster Pot. Another quiet evening on board followed where our alcohol supplies took another battering.

KALLIN TO LOCHMADDY on NORTH UIST (OUTER HEBRIDES)
          After breakfast Barrie and John went to retrieve the lobster pot. As we suspected; no Lobster. We made our way out and turned north. It was a short run through to Lochmaddy, with the wind from the west at around fifteen knots. With full sail we were there in less than two hours. After turning in to Lochmaddy we slowed and then went on engine so our fishermen could once again show their prowess with a fishing rod. What can I say; an abject failure. We picked up a visitors mooring and launched the dinghy so our fishermen could set the Lobster Pot.
          We went ashore, our first call was the Tourist Information Office by the pier. Our problem was that we intended to sail north to Stornoway but our chart ended at East Loch Tarbet. We asked where could we purchase a Nautical Chart. The two ladies in The Tourist Information Office were very helpful and phoned the Harbourmaster at Stornoway.. He was unfortunately on holiday, undaunted they phoned a Mr Richings who faxed us the relevant data. Our thanks to both The Tourist Information Office and Mr Richings. We then moved to the Local Shop and Filling Station, (Petrol for the Outboard on the Dinghy and the 240volt Generator), both of which were very small compared to what we are used to. We commented on the developments, which had taken place since our last visit here, eight years ago. We called in to the Lochmaddy Hotel Bar for a pint. The Bar was full and we watched the Ferry from Uig on Skye approach. The Bar emptied and we were almost alone. The two Bobs went back to Classic Wave leaving Barrie, John and myself in the Bar. The barmaid was called Nikki and had great problems with us. She finally realised not to take us too seriously. The beer was Isle of Skye, Red Coullin, which was a decent pint,.We finally returned to Classic Wave to sleep it off. After a sleep and a meal we returned to the Lochmaddy Hotel. We took this opportunity to call in at the recycling station opposite the hotel. It is just as well no one saw us, what with Wine Bottles, Beer Bottles and Whiskey Bottles, they may have thought that we were not fit and proper persons to navigate a Yacht. The shift had changed and a different barmaid was serving us, she hated pulling pints of Real Ale and groaned when I asked for four pints Red Coullin, “are you sure you want this” she asked. I replied that as a member of CAMRA of course I do.
The views over Lochmaddy from the hotel in the evening are breathtaking.

TOBERMORY TO CANNA
It was nine thirty before we were ready to leave, after slipping our mooring we motored out into the Sound of Mull and raised the sails. Passing Ardnamurchan Point (the most westerly point of mainland UK) in very poor visibility we sailed past the islands of Eigg, Muck and Rhum without being able to see them. The wind was South-westerly at fifteen knots so we were able to sail at six knots. We gybed in to the sound of Canna and at last saw Canna about one mile off to port, Rhum also came in to view to starboard as the Sound narrowed. It was again raining as we turned in towards Canna harbour. The rain eased and the wind speed dropped as we went in to the lee of the cliffs. The sails were dropped and our two competing fishermen grabbed their rods to see who could provide what for our evening meal. One fair sized Pollock and a couple of Mackerel later we were in Canna harbour. Facilities here are just about zero so after a fish supper our onboard stocks of beer and whiskey took a hammering. It rained all evening and most of the night.