Story 10

He introduced himself as John as we headed for his hire car. The car was rather small for four of us and our luggage, but we managed to get everything in. As we left the airport John told us that he had done some sailing, this perhaps explains the change of attitude. We spent the next hour and a quarter telling mainly sailing stories. John told us he was from London and was here on business, something to do with a property deal. We arrived at Galway docks and invited John on board, after a tour of Classic Wave we gave him a beer and paid him for the petrol. He then left us to head for his hotel. I will send him a copy of this log in way of a thank you. We headed for a pub, it was a bit late but “the Quays” was still open, after a couple of pints we headed back to Classic Wave for supper. It was decision time; we had to decide whether or not to leave the following morning. The forecast was for rain the following day (Friday) and strong winds the day after (Saturday). We decided to stay in Galway, probably till Sunday.
It was raining when we went to sleep and still raining when we awoke, a leisurely breakfast followed and a restful day. It rained all day, a short trip out and a Gaelic Coffee in the afternoon and back for one of Barrie’s specials, steak, for our evening meal. The evening was spent in a city centre pub called Taffee’s and then back to the Quays for the rest of the evening. The morning at last brought some sunshine, but the winds as forecast picked up. Watching the barometer, it at last started to rise, the centre of the low-pressure area had at last past us and the weather should improve tomorrow. We then put an expedition together to the supermarket; I can only describe it as an expedition because we took Barrie with us. It took all four of us to carry everything we had bought back to Classic Wave. That evening we visited four city centre pubs, the last one being the Quays to please Barrie.

GALWAY TO ROUNDSTONE.
The following morning it was at last time to move. A Swiss yacht that had rafted up to us was also leaving; Bob called the harbourmaster on the radio who had just finished dealing with a ship that had entered. He gave us permission to leave and ten minutes both the Swiss yacht, an Oyster that had arrived on Friday evening and ourselves were clear of the harbour. The wind was from the West at only about five knots. The sun was shining and we motored northwest out of Galway Bay between the Aran Islands and the mainland. The sea was slight, in fact a very pleasant late spring day. Our only complaint was the lack of wind. On leaving Galway Bay we turned in to a maze of small islands and then went through “the Inner Passage” and turned in to Roundstone Bay. As we turned in Barrie tried his hand at fishing, no luck. We turned towards the mooring, as we got nearer the depth sounder alarm went off. The alarm is set at three metres, while Classic Wave draws two metres. The engine revs were reduced and we edged our way in. It was just before low water so we decided not to risk the moorings and dropped the anchor in slightly deeper water. A tannoy system was being used on shore, we later learned that it was the end of a road race. The dinghy was drained and then launched and we went ashore. A yacht by the wall was preparing to hoist a crewman up the mast to sort out a couple of problems, the foresail and a wind indicator. As there were only two on board we offered to man the safety line. Bob P. got the job and the rest of us had a look round and had a pint in a pub.

ROUNDSTONE TO FRENCHPORT (PORTNAFRANKAGH).
         It was overcast but calm when we got up and had breakfast. By nine o’clock we had lifted the anchor and were underway. The plan was to go to the isle of Inishboffin, after leaving Roundstone Bay we headed west to Slyne Head. The wind was only three or four knots from the north and the sea state was slight. As we were again on the engine, by midday we were only ten miles from Inishboffin. We decided to keep moving and get across Clew Bay. The visibility had improved and was now excellent; the scenery looking inland was spectacular. We could see the Maumturk Mountains, the Mweelrea Mountains and the Nephin Beg range. The northern end of Clew Bay is Achill Head after rounding it, we decided against Blacksod Bay and moved north passing the Mullet peninsula. This is the northern most part of County Galway so we were now in County Mayo. As we passed the isle of Inishglora we slowed to let Barrie have another go at fishing, a Pollock for our evening meal. We then rounded Annach Head and entered Frenchport also called Portnafrankagh. A number of fishing boats were at anchor so we joined them. The weather had improved during the day, the sun was shining and the seas had remained slight. The nearest pub was four miles away so it was an evening on board. The sun set over the Atlantic was picturesque to say the least.

FRENCHPORT TO ARAN ISLAND (BURTONPORT).
         This was to be our longest day at sea; the planned voyage was to cross Donegal Bay. We were up by six thirty and had breakfast on the move, after motoring out of Frenchport and turning north we passed Erris Head leaving County Mayo without stepping ashore. We were now in County Donegal crossing Donegal Bay. The wind was from the north at about fifteen knots and the sun was shining, all sails were hoisted and we had our first taste of true sailing on this trip. We could not quite make our course with the wind from this direction and had to settle for a course about ten degrees too far west. We sailed on for the next five hours doing just over five knots before tacking. This was taking us even further off course. The engine was started, the reasoning behind this was that none of us had been to Burtonport before and the entrance is complicated with a series of leading lights, so we did not want to enter after dark. A weather front was approaching us from the south (as forecast) and it looked grey and menacing. It finally caught up with us as we approached Aran Island off Burtonport. The chart showed two possible anchorages in bays off the south coast of the island. After taking a look at both Chapel Bay and Rossilean Bay we settled for Rossilean Bay. It was raining as we approached and the wind had as forecast backed round to the south and picked up a bit. The anchor was dropped just clear of some fishing boats and we had a look round, using binoculars, no obvious pub or shop could be seen. Another quiet evening on board ensued and a fairly uncomfortable night, with a swell affecting our anchorage and rain pounding the deck.

ARAN ISLAND TO DOWNIES (SHEEP HAVEN).
          After our rocking night we awoke to find that the wind had veered slightly to the south-west and we departed Rossilian Bay. The sea was rougher than the previous evening and it was still raining. Once round Aran Island and in to deeper water the sea calmed and the foresail and mizzen were deployed giving us six knots of speed with no engine and in the right direction. Visibility was poor and we could only see for about three miles. After avoiding Stag Rocks we gybed round Bloody Foreland and sailed between the mainland and Tory Island. The sea was calmer and the rain stopped as we approached Horn Head and entered Sheep Haven. The wind funneled between hills and increased, we were doing eight knots and well heeled over as we crossed Sheep Haven towards Downies. As we passed the harbour wall the sails were quickly dropped and we moved up to the pier under engine. There was a crowd watching and a young lady took our fore line but did not know what to do with it. I scrambled ashore and tied us up. A walk through to the shops followed. The only problem was that the off licence was closed and Barrie could not restock the whiskey. The village was pleasant and had a great beach; a large caravan park over looking the beach seemed very quiet. The whole place was obviously waiting for the summer. A young couple on a neighbouring yacht directed us to The Harbour Inn, which is where we retired for the evening. The pub had won a James Joyce award as a typical Irish pub, the outside seating was fine and the views across the bay were stunning. Then the midges started to bite, so it was inside for us. We ended up talking to a couple who were originally from Northern Ireland but now live locally and a rather strange elderly gentleman who with a younger lady were musicians. They with others lived in an old fishing vessel berthed at the same pier we were on.

DOWNIES TO COLERAINE.
         The wind was from the south-west the following morning and we tried to leave just after low water, we were touching bottom, so our departure was delayed by three-quarters of an hour. We moved out in to Sheep Haven and noticed that we had a problem with both the battery charging and the auto helm. The auto helm was checked and appeared to be working properly. We moved out of Sheep Haven and sailed towards Malin Head with the foresail and mizzen sail. The sea was calmer than we had expected it to be but the visibility was still poor. By the time we passed Loch Swilly the stay sail was hoisted. The tide was with us as after we rounded Malin Head and we were making nine knots over the ground on a broad reach as we approached the River Bann. About five miles off the wind eased and the engine was started, it was again raining and we were less than a mile off when the entrance to the river was spotted. It rained continually as we moved up the river Bann to Coleraine Marina. Ricky the Marina Manager took our lines when we arrived and explained that the Marina was being rebuilt. The pontoons had been replaced but the walkway between the pontoons and the land had not yet been installed. An old speedboat was tied to both and you had to pull yourself between. After food on board we were ready to hit the town.
         A taxi was ordered to take us in to Coleraine and for the first time in two years (while sailing) I was able to use the Good Beer Guide. There is no Real Ale in the republic of Ireland. The taxi took us to the Old Courthouse (A Wetherspoons Pub) The London’s Pride had run out, so it was Marstons Pedigree and Red McGregor Ale. It was here that we had a beer in Memory of John Preston’s father (John is a regular crew member of Classic Wave) who’s fathers funeral took place that day.
         The following morning we walked in to Coleraine and visited the Library where we could access the Internet and book our flights home. We settled on an Aer Arann flight from City of Derry Airport to Manchester the following day. We then walked through Coleraine’s centre and had a pub lunch and a pint, then some shopping and walked back to the marina. Ricky the marina manager had advised us to move to one of the inner berths, if we reversed in this would make the repairs to the wind generator a lot easier. It’s funny how everyone stops to watch when you manoeuvre a boat in a confined space. It’s like watching motor racing; everyone is waiting for the crash. We gently moved Classic Wave in to her berth and everyone lost interest and went back to what they were doing. That evening the four of us caught the Bus to Port Stewart as we had been told that the pubs were better. It is only three miles and the fare was £1.40 each. We had a look at the very small harbour and then on to the first of our recommended pubs called Bar 7. Well, with very few exceptions we felt like granddad.
We moved on to the Anchor, which was better except that the only ale on was Smithwicks, which we thought we had left behind in the Irish Republic. We moved on again to the Port Stewart Hotel where the Bass left something to be desired. We took a taxi back to the marina which cost £5.00 (it cost £5.68 for four of us on the bus)
         The following morning came and the taxi was due at eleven in the morning, after breakfast we packed and were ready just after ten. Our luggage was moved ashore and we had a look round the marina’s boatyard. The taxi arrived and we chatted with the driver mainly about Northern Ireland politics all the way to the airport. The airport is close to Loch Foyle which is the boundary between Northern Ireland and the Republic. The Journey took forty minutes and cost £30.00. The flight was on time in a turboprop aircraft, my first flight in one for many years. The train journey from Manchester was equally uneventful despite Barrie nearly getting us to board the wrong train.


                                                                                                         MILES         HOURS
Thursday    19th. May 2005       Kilrush to Carrigaholt                               7.0               1.15
Friday        20th. May 2005       Carrigaholt to Kilronan                           51.5               8.45
Monday     23rd. May 2005       Kilronan to Galway                                26.1               5.30
Sunday        29th May 2005      Galway to Roundstone                            41.7               6.10
Monday       30th   May 2005     Roundstone to Frenchport                       67.1               9.45
Tuesday       31st May 2005      Frenchport to Aran Island                       83.1              13.30
Wednesday    1st June 2005      Aran Island to Downies                          38.1                6.45
Thursday        2nd June 2005      Downies to Coleraine                             48.1                8.00
                                                                                       Totals            362.7              59.40