Story 9

         After stowing our gear on board, Barbara served up a meal of Crab with Salad starter, followed by Lasagne. The pub soon beckoned, Barbara declined our invitation to join us telling us she is on “The Atkins Diet” so no Alcohol. We pointed out that Dr Atkins died overweight, we were told that “it’s working for me, Women !. Bob joined us for an hour, but then returned to “Classic Wave”, leaving us seated in “Grotty’s. An evening of traditional Music was on and Barrie soon had us in the middle of it. They insisted we took part. I ended up singing in my own style (in other words I can’t sing) “So here’s to you” by Alan Bell, while Barrie did the Wild Rover. He forgot the words and had to be prompted. We left at about 12.30.

KILRUSH TO CARRIGAHOLT.
             Bob and Barbara were gone when Barrie and myself got up. Barbara was returning home and Bob was returning their hire Car to Shannon Airport. Barrie and myself were tasked to get the provisions and prepare Classic Wave for sea. After breakfast a visit to the supermarket followed, steak caught Barrie’s eye first and the rest is, as they say history. 155 Euro later, I finally managed to get him out of the place. Bob arrived back earlier than we expected him, as we made ready for sea. At 16.00 hrs we were heading straight through the open lock as it was close to high water. The tide was still rushing in as we made our way out in to the river Shannon. One hour and fifty minutes later we were rafted up to a Fishing Charter vessel called Vagabound in Carrigaholt harbour. The potential tidal fall was assessed, Risky, after a meal on board we moved out to a mooring. The dinghy was launched and we made our way in to the Village. Four pubs were checked out, we settled for “The Long Dock” which we were informed is famous for it’s Seafood Restaurant.

CARRIGAHOLT TO KILRONAN ON INISHMORE.
          Bob was first up and had the dinghy stowed before we stirred. The engine being started had us up and moving quickly. Bob dropped the mooring while Barrie and myself pulled up the mainsail. We had breakfast on the move as we motor sailed towards Loop Head. The wind was only about five knots as we rounded Loop Head leaving the Shannon. The wind was now on the nose as we turned towards our intended destination of Mutton Island. We changed course towards Inishmore, which was 35 miles away; the engine was left running. The tide turned with us and we were doing about five and a half knots. During our passage we were ambushed by four schools of Dolphins, they see you coming and rush towards you jumping out of the water and then swim by the bow (front) and actually touch the hull. It is very difficult to count them as they constantly switch positions. The second school numbered about twenty Dolphins and the fourth and our final school numbered about thirty.
         As we arrived at Gregory Sound between the islands of Inishmore and Inishmann we slowed down so Barrie could show his prowess with a fishing rod, what can I say, Colefish for our evening meal. We turned in to Killeany Bay between a small island and the main island and crossed a sand bar, which is dry at low water. After crossing the bay we found out that it was Lifeboat day and the Trawlers were all decorated with bunting etc. the visitors moorings were all occupied so we dropped the anchor. The dinghy was launched and we went to have a look round the village of Kilronan. Two pubs, half a dozen Seafood restaurants and a couple of sweater shops were all that were there. There were loads of young people around; it seems a popular destination for them. We then returned to Classic Wave and had our evening meal (Colefish) and returned to spend a couple of hours in a pub called “An American Bar” which was full of young people and a bit loud.

KILROWEN TO SRUTHAN QUAY.
         We awoke to find that the weather had deteriorated. It had rained overnight and the wind had increased from the SSW, after some thought we decided to move on to Rossaveal in Cashla Bay. The dinghy was stowed and the anchor raised. For the first time on this voyage we were able to sail. The wind slackened as we crossed to Cashla Bay. We were in no hurry so sailed slowly in to Cashla Bay. Barrie had the rod out again and another Colefish for our evening meal appeared. We took a look at Rossaveal Harbour, which has no facilities for yachts, just ferries and large fishing boats. We crossed the bay to Sruthan Quay and picked up a visitors mooring. The dinghy was again launched and we headed ashore to have a look round. Two local fishermen directed us to the local shops / pub as we were setting off the Harbourmaster pounced for the mooring fees. 6 Euro and 35 cents was the fee, we had a problem with change and got away with 5 Euro. He gave us a lift in to the village, where we bought some provisions and strolled back to the quay and back to Classic Wave.
          The evening saw us walking back in to the village which we now knew is called Carraroe, the pub is called An Cistin which in Galic means The Kitchen. We had expected a quiet village pub, which at the front it was, the back however was very different. The décor was unusual, all wood in natural shapes and by Irish pub standards very spacious. The group, whose name escapes me started playing, their sound heavily influenced by Country and Western. They played everything from Country to Bob Dylan to Irish Folk all with a Country feel. I was waiting for someone to shout YEE HAW, but nobody did. By the end of the evening (12.30) the place was packed with mainly young people. We walked back to the quay to find the dinghy high and dry. After carrying it to the waters edge and then sitting in it waiting for the tide to lift us, the usual jokes came through. “It’s a bit shallow here” and “This waters hard”. The tide lifted us about 15 minutes later, we paddled in to deeper water so the outboard could be lowered and started. It was then back to Classic Wave and bed.

We had a couple of drinks in “Taffes” bar and then moved on to the Quay, which had a rock band playing. The layout of the pub is fascinating; it is decorated with old church furniture on two levels, the ground floor and the basement. Barrie, as is his norm, headed straight for the noisiest and most densely occupied area, which was the basement level. I thought “Sod this for a game of soldiers” and stayed in the quieter ground floor level. At least Bob got a pint of Murphy’s Stout, which is hard to find around these parts.
          We decided to have a day off and stay another day in Galway. After visiting the Harbourmasters to pay our berthing dues and then on to the supermarket to again replenish our provisions (you can tell Barrie is on board). The Chandlers was next on the list where Bob bought some new flares to replace some out of date ones, which was followed by a pub lunch. The evening was spent once again exploring the bright lights of Galway. After visiting a couple of pubs we ended up back at “The Quay”, where we were befriended by John from Carlow near Dublin who was there for the Galway races and a Frenchman who works in computers in Galway. It was almost one in the morning when we made our way back to Classic Wave.

GALWAY TO KILRUSH.
        The plan was to be at sea by eight. What I can only describe as the ‘AutoPilot’ seemed to take over as we slipped our lines and was clear of the harbour by seven thirty. Breakfast at sea followed with all sails hoisted as we moved out of the Galway Channel and headed for Black Head under sail. The engine was left running for an hour to charge the batteries. Once round Black Head the mainsail was dropped and the foresail and staysail goose winged as the wind was from almost directly behind us. Two hours later the wind died completely and the engine was again started. The forecast for the following day gave us little comfort, a band of rain moving in from the southwest. Our intention was to spend the night off Mutton Island, the best-laid plans of mice and men. We decided to press on and round Loop Head, back in to the Shannon. After another Dolphin ambush on the way, we rounded Loop Head at five thirty in the afternoon.
          We were back in the Shannon, as the river narrowed we were doing eight and a half Knots with the tide according to the GPS. We entered Kilrush at eight thirty in the evening, it had clouded over and the temperature had dropped as we tied up in the marina. A quick meal on board and it was off to the pub. In “The Haven” we met up with “Fennie” who had helped us when we first arrived in Kilrush by turning a brass stud to replace one on our starter motor. He was with a crowd eating periwinkles. It was after twelve when we left and had to use our ingenuity to get back in to the marina as the code on the gate had changed.

KILRUSH TO GLIN.
          The rain arrived slightly later than forecast at ten in the morning. We waited for a break in the rain and headed for the supermarket for our last top up shopping, we still got wet. It was three thirty in the afternoon when we motored out of Kilrush. We passed between Scattery island and the mainland and motored across the river past Tarbet and in to Glin, where we dropped the anchor.
           A walk through the village revealed five pubs (one only opens at weekends). We called in for one at a bar called “J. Barrett” other than to serve us, we were ignored, we moved on. The next was called “Conway”. The Licensee was talkative and was full of local knowledge. He served no Ale, only Stout and Lager. I had to pull him up about this as a member of the Campaign for Real Ale. A long debate followed about the merits of Real Ale, which he tells me will never sell in Ireland. My view is that of course they would sell if the Irish people were given the choice, two (admittedly very small) Real Ale Breweries do exist in Ireland. The big Brewers deny that choice. The same nearly happened in the UK, only pressure from customers and Real Ale groups kept it alive. It is cheaper and easier to produce and keep Keg (or dead beer as some call it) that’s why the Breweries deny choice. I was then informed that Real Ale can not be sold cold enough for Irish tastes. We had to agree to differ and I had a Guinness. The Licensee introduced himself as John Conway, he advised us on Taxis to take us to Limerick to catch the train home. He has also done a bit of sailing and talked about possible anchorages.
         The dinghy was checked three times before word came back that it was time to leave, or it would be beached at the foot of the Slipway, with the ebbing tide. We just made it with only Barrie getting his feet wet.
          The following morning we awoke late and after breakfast went ashore as we were waiting for the tide. After a look at an old fort kept as a memorial to those who died fighting the English invaders, we moved on. A passing young lady was asked, “does this road lead back to the village” yes she said, just keep turning right. It’s about four miles. We actually walked the four miles and headed back to the Conway pub for a pint before heading back to Classic Wave.

GLIN TO FOYNES.
         After lifting the anchor and hoisting the sails, we sailed very slowly in very light winds. At about half way to Foynes the wind died and we completed our last passage of the holiday under motor. On arrival at Foynes we talked to the owner of a small boat who agreed to raft up to the outside of us, as we were the larger boat. We tied up and took a look round the sailing club. Everyone look shattered, it was the final day of the week long National Mermaid racing championships and the last race had recently finished. A dinner and prize giving ceremony was planned for that evening. The lady who appeared to be running the Clubhouse phoned a local taxi (John Conway’s advice the previous evening) to book a cab for Barrie and myself for the following morning. Our final evening in Ireland was spent in a pub in Foynes where the landlady told us of the custom she had lost due to the smoking ban and Bob trying to wind up two Scousers who were working in the area. We moved back to the Sailing Club in time for the Prize giving which seemed to go on forever. We had a few pints, again no ale, when John Conway appeared. He had said he might make it to the event, three pints of Guinness appeared and he would not hear of us reciprocating. A rock group started to play and it was about one before we left.
            The taxi was there at five forty five the following morning as arranged and we arrived at Limerick Railway Station with half an hour to spare. The train to Dublin was on time and we caught the bus across Dublin to the airport. Our flight back to Blackpool was equally uneventful.
                                                                                                                                       Kevan

                                                                         MILES     HOURS
KILRUSH TO CARRIGAHOLT                           9            2
CARRIGAHOLT TO KILRONAN                      49            9
KILRONAN TO SRUTHAN QUAY                     9.3         3.10
SRUTHAN QUAY TO GALWAY                      22.2         5.15
GALWAY TO KILRUSH                                    64.2       13.10
KILRUSH TO GLIN                                              7.3          2
GLIN TO FOYNES                                               5.9          2.20

                                                           TOTAL    166.9        36.55

TOTAL ENGINE HOURS 33.