Story 8

Kinsale to Baltimore
By mid-morning the rain had cleared and after getting the latest forecast from the Marina Office, we made our way out to Sea. We motored with just the mizzen sail up until we rounded the Old Head of Kinsale. The low pressure area in the mid Atlantic, which had given us the previous evenings rain also gave us some rough sea’s and a large swell. The wind was as forecast from the South-West, this made sailing difficult as it was almost directly in to wind. The seas were at their roughest round the headlands, which as our luck would have it is just what we had to contend with. The South Coast of Ireland is a series of headlands. We rounded the Old Head of Kinsale, Seven Head, Galley Head, Toe Head and Spainish Point before we could turn in to Baltimore harbour. Watching the big Atlantic rollers crash on to the headlands, creating giant plumes of white spray, was like fireworks exploding. On arrival at Baltimore we tried to tie up to the end of the water barge which has been adapted to act as a pontoon. Because other boats were berthed with their ends sticking out, we gave up and rafted up to another yacht. The berthing fee is twenty euro, a complete Rip-Off as no facilities were provided. The evening was spent at a harbour side pub, where a group were playing out side. Since the smoking ban, a lot more seems to happen outside in Ireland.

Baltimore to Castletown (Bearhaven)
Baltimore was left behind the following morning, we passed Clear Island and Cape Clear and set course for Mizen Head. The Fastnet rock was left to our port and Roaringwater Bay to our starboard as we made our way out in to the Atlantic Ocean. The wind was still from the South-West at about twelve knots. This part of the west coast of Ireland is often described as having long fingers (headlands) jutting out in to the Atlantic, many of these fingers are more than thirty miles long. The Atlantic swell was still with us as we crossed Dunmanus Bay and rounded Muntervary Head (aka Sheeps Head) and entered Bantry Bay. After motoring across we moved between the mainland and Bear Island (Gaelic Spelling Bere) and as we entered Bearhaven, we were at last protected from the Atlantic swell. After entering Castletown harbour a mooring buoy was located, which we tied up to. The dinghy was launched and after a meal onboard we headed ashore. The intention was to have a look round, but, within ten minutes of landing it started to rain and the pub beckoned. A group of Irish musicians were playing in the bar, we were there all evening.

The following day the weather was as forecast; raining. At around lunchtime the rain eased and we took a walk in to town visiting a few shops. Barrie bought himself a replacement Fishing Rod and we took the opportunity to visit the local supermarket. Barrie was up to his usual tricks, putting everything that takes his fancy in to the trolley; it was soon full of Steaks and Cakes as well as anything fattening that he could lay his hands on. Michael was opting for the healthier choices, with Pasta and low fat products. Bob and myself were as usual looking on bemused. We were all laden down with a great deal of food and drink as we made our way back to Classic Wave. The evening was spent in a hotel bar where two local lads were playing Irish Jigs and Reels. We moved on to Murphy’s Pub where a group called “Shernanigans” kept us entertained for the rest of the evening. What surprised us was the number of American visitors; the audience was packed with them, “seeing the old country”

Dingle to Fenit
We left Dingle the following morning, as we moved up the channel the resident Dolphin called “Fungi” leaped out of the water to see us off. The wind was from the northwest and we sailed (a rarity on this voyage) west round Slea Head and in to Blasket Sound. Turning north to enter the sound (between Blasket Island and the mainland) the engine was again started as we did a dogleg close to Dunmore Head to avoid some rocks. The power of the Sea could clearly be seen as we passed the Blasket Islands The Sea had bored large holes through solid rock. We motored passed Clogher Head and turned Northeast towards Sybil Head. After rounding Sybil Head we entered the Shannon Estuary. The wind had eased so the engine was left on and we motorsailed passed Smerwick Harbour towards the Three Sisters. We noticed a number of small fishing boats ahead of us, which we paid little heed to until just ahead of us we spotted a drift net. The engine was quickly brought down to tick over and neutral engaged. Luckily we passed over it without it snagging and for the next ten miles we were being called on the radio and guided by fishermen round drift nets. It is Salmon season at this time of year around here. After passing Brandon Bay we went between the Seven Hogs (a small group of islands) and turned in to Tralee Bay. As we moved down channel we were ambushed by a School of Dolphins. There is something enchanting about watching them swim under the bow of the boat and then move a few feet to one side and jump out of the water. As fast as they arrived they were gone. We moved round Finit lighthouse and entered the Marina. The way the harbour was built is lesson to us all, in using whatever nature has given us and adding to it. The majority of the harbour wall is natural rock, where nature did not do it for them, the rest is concrete A bridge connects the harbour to the mainland. As we entered Bob spotted a fuel tanker filling a Fishing Trawler, we pulled in and asked “how much per Litre”. Alas he had none left, worth a try. The Marina had a fuel berth so we pulled on to it and took 244 litres at 42 Cents per litre. We were directed to a berth where we tied up and spent a quiet evening in a local pub.

Fenit to Kilrush
The following morning we paid our fuel and marina dues, and left Finit. Our cameras were at the ready as we motored up channel in very calm conditions. Just a gentle Atlantic swell in contrast to earlier in the week. Needless to say no Dolphins. After motoring round Kerry Head we entered the River Shannon. Following the channel we were joined by three Dolphins, camera’s were grabbed and photos taken. We were barely on to the river when we reached Kilrush, the entrance to which is a lock. We called the Marina on the radio and a young man duly arrived to operate the lock. After being directed to a berth, we were tied up in no time. The starter motor had been playing up a bit and we had a sheared stud on an electrical contact. Bob and Barry disappeared to try to find somewhere that could sell us a Brass stud of the correct size. Advice was sought in the Marina office and they were soon on their way to ”Fenny’s”. Mr Fenton has a boat in the Marina and runs a small engineering business. A while later Bob and Barrie arrived back at Classic Wave with a brass bar that had been turned to our specifications on a lathe that was older than Bob (now that’s saying something). The starter motor was removed and we found that the stud had wires from the field coils soldered on to it. The best laid plans of Mice and Men often come to nothing. The starter was reassembled and put back in. Still not working correctly.
The evening was spent quietly in three pubs in Kilrush, there appeared to be no entertainment on anywhere. We were however accosted by a fairly elderly Gentleman, with a very broad Irish accent which made him very difficult to understand. He seemed to be going on about the B Specials in the 1960’s Northern Ireland. His friend kept on telling us to ignore him; we made our excuses and moved on to another Pub. We ended up at a small Pub called “Grottys” which at least had some character about it.
It was raining the following morning. We spent a couple of hours checking the wiring and batteries; it became clear that it was the starter motor itself that was faulty. Advice was again sought from the Marina office and a mechanic was contacted, the starter motor was again removed and passed on to him. He told us he would have to send it through to Limerick to be tested and repaired or replaced. (The final result, after some days, was fitting a new starter motor)
Michael was despatched to Shannon Airport by bus to collect a hire car to take us early the next morning through to Dublin Airport for our flight home. The rest of us tried out another Pub and then slept for most of the afternoon. We had been told that a Bar-be-Que. was to take place that evening at the Marina, but that all the tickets had been sold. Michael arrived back with the Hire Car and we ate on board. At about eight we called in at the Bar-be-Que. and bought some drinks. Food began being served and we went in to town for a couple of beers. The Bar-be-Que. was in full swing when we got back and Barrie’s eyes lit up when he saw the food being served. Bob and myself had to stand between him and a young man eating Steak and Sausages in fear that Barrie was going to MUG him for it. Luckily there was some food left and we managed to buy some. It turned out that this was in aid of the first all female crew who were taking part in the Around Ireland Race, They were due to leave Kilrush two weeks later to head for the start.
It was four in the morning when Michael woke Barrie and myself. A last check to see we had everything and we walked through to the car. The party on the ‘all-female crew’ yacht was still going on, I’m too old for all night parties. We left Kilrush at twenty five past four and Michael drove through to Ennis and then through to Limerick, where we picked up the road to Dublin. We arrived at Dublin Airport just before eight. The hire car was returned and we had breakfast at the airport, after a mix up over which gate to go to, we caught the flight home.
Kevan

Kinsale to Baltimore
Baltimore to Bearhaven
Bearhaven to Dingle
Dingle to Fenit
Fenit to Kilrush